Second-Hand Goodness!

I just adore art and writing supplies. I love their touch, all the distinctive smells (the way the Japanese manga ink or freshly sharpened cedar-wood pencils smell!), and the beautiful colors of inks and pigments suggesting unlimited creative possibilities bound within them.
I love researching, getting new tools, and arranging them into small sets that fit and work nicely together. I even treasure cleaning art tools, fixing them, and modifying them to match my artistic needs.

Looking at how many of my favorite artists work, I recognize and understand that the tools used don’t have to be of the ultimate quality, expensive, or rare to create exceptional art and be well-matched to the task at hand.
It seems that the “matching feeling” is the most important aspect – in my experience, a great tool works just right, feels great in hand, and when needed, “disappears,” completely getting out of the way, letting the process flow, and can even help a lot to energize and inspire the creative spirit.
Somehow, great tools just beg to be picked up and used. They make creating art that bit more pleasurable and fun, so for me, they can serve as one of the methods of keeping myself content with everyday work – a trick I learned from other creative people too (Neil Gaiman talked about his favorite fountain pens that work like that for him in this interview, for example).

It’s easy to understand then that when I first came to Japan and started to visit all the art supplies stores packed with art-making gear, I wanted to try everything! All the crayons, markers, brush-tipped pens, and mechanical pencils were singing to me about what would be possible if I just bought one more. I tried to limit myself to tools that actually looked like they could help me with what I had in mind for my art, but still, a few years later, when I was moving to Tokyo, I found that I had boxes and boxes of stuff that I did not use at all – what a sad sight indeed!

Since then, I stopped impulse-buying. I tried to distribute some unused tools to my art friends, but still, a lot of what was left was plastic, single-use items that had already managed to get bone-dry and had to be thrown away – an even more painful thing to do for me! I promised myself I would be more conscious about what I buy, why, and where. I adopted a more minimalistic approach to my tools.

After all, after years of experimenting, my toolset became very simple and does not change at all:

  • pencils for sketching,
  • fountain pens and ballpoint pens for drawing lines,
  • watercolors for coloring.

Even if I test some new tools on the way, I always somehow come back to these basics.
I stopped buying cheap and single-use tools in favor of ones well made of durable materials that can be reused, refilled, and repaired easily – tools that will last for years.

But what’s most important, I also aim for tools that will give me the long-term joy of use and win with this short-lasting dopamine hit of buying a cheap but cool disposable pen, testing it once or twice, and forgetting it immediately. In other words, I want a pen or a pencil I will be happy to hold in my hand every day for many coming years of work – again, it’s more about the pleasure of using the tool, its sustainability, and how well it “matches” the work and not about just how expensive, rare or cool and fancy it is.

To reduce waste and find the tools I could not afford otherwise, I started extensively using the second-hand market service called Mercari. Right now, almost half of the tools I use as my daily drivers I have bought second-hand, and I also use this service a lot to try to sell things I don’t need instead of just forgetting them or throwing them away.

Actually, I noticed that for some years now, one of my dreams of the “if I had more time and money” type that has stuck in the back of my head is to open a second-hand art supplies store (or a mobile truck one – like a mobile library). A beautifully wooden, magic- or old Paris-like store that would buy used or not needed any more art supplies, recondition and sort them, and then sell them cheaper so there’s less waste, and more artists can afford nicer tools. For example, I could buy a set of watercolors that only had two colors used and then sell all the other tubes separately, then maybe sell the tin box after cleaning and re-painting it, too. I understand why such shops are a rarity even in a massive city like Tokyo – the expertise needed to run one and the dangers of re-selling used supplies are great, especially in the art world – who would like an angry painter coming back and demanding compensation for second-hand paint that did not work exactly as they were expecting – but I would love a big shop like that to frequent.

For now, I can hunt for and sell art tools online; there are a lot that make excellent second-hand purchases:

  • Ballpoint and rollerball pens – as these pens rely on cartridges that also replace the “business” end of the pen entirely, often use standardized refills, and are usually less in demand than fountain pens, it’s easy to find a very nice one for drawing. It’s also possible to adapt and convert refills to a type I would like to use for drawing, even if the original ones are not good for it at all.
  • Color and graphite pencils – are relatively safe purchases and appear A LOT on second-hand websites – I guess many people just can not help themselves from buying a beautiful tin can full of colors and then using just one or two.
  • Mechanical pencils and lead holders – the most well-known brands, made of metal or the nicer ones for technical drawing, are a neat second-hand purchase. I use a Parker 0.9mm pencil from, I think, the 1960s that I found online, and I like it a lot. It’s best to buy pencils that use popular lead sizes, though – some can use weird thicknesses that limit the choices – 0.3, 0.5, 0.7, 0.9, and 2.0mm offer a lot of flexibility!
  • Isograph-like technical pens like the Rotring ISOGRAPH or Faber-Castell TG1-S, which just take ink and not special cartridges, are a nice buy, too! In my experience, some drafting and technical drawing tools were made to higher standards when they were popular thirty or so years ago. I use some technical pens made in West Germany that are better than the ones I can buy in stores now. However, these pens are clog-prone and often used with waterproof inks, so I look for ones marked as new-old-stock.
  • Parts! – It can be surprisingly cheap and convenient to buy parts for broken tools. That tip for a technical pen from the 1980s, or the pointy tip (lead sleeve it’s called, or 口金 – “mouth steel” in Japan) for a favorite mechanical pencil? – I always check online before giving up on a tool! In the same way, it may be good to sell broken tools, too – maybe someone will use just the cap from that broken pen and make things last longer this way!

However, there are some supplies I’m more careful about buying, and I often go for new ones:

  • Paper supplies, especially if I plan to use them with paints or inks (like fountain pens). Sizing – the coating that helps paper handle water can get bad over time and make the paper unusable for painting. Things like pencil sketching or drawing with a ballpoint pen will still work well, though.
  • Fountain pens – it might seem a great deal to be able to buy a nice pen cheaper, or an old-style one that is not available new anymore (like all those with fancy, flexible nibs) – but as nibs can get damaged easily and are in most cases not easily replaceable I personally prefer going to a store specializing in such tools, to try them out before buying, or get them adjusted on the spot if needed. The exception here for me are fountain pens that can be easily repaired even if the nib turns out unusable, like the LAMY Safari or Al-Star lines, for example.
  • Obviously, I try to avoid non-refillable pens or ones requiring weird proprietary cartridges. Some can still be reused with a bit of DIY work, but I’m always careful. If I was making art with a lot of single-use tools, then maybe I would have been tempted to buy more of those second-hand too (like markers or fineliners) to not feel so bad about throwing them away when the ink runs out, but I avoid these in the first place.

Here are only some examples of my everyday tools I got second-hand:

  • Gold-colored LAMY Lx fountain pen I got second-hand online.
  • Faber Castell and Rotring technical pens made in West Germany (30 years old?).
  • Montblanc and Parker rollerball and ballpoint pens that look and feel great that I managed to find for real bargain prices and now use daily for drawing and sketching.
  • Old Parker 0.9mm mechanical pencil with a weird clutch mechanism.

All these old tools work excellently and serve me well in my everyday work. It makes me happy and my workday more pleasurable to take them out also because I like to imagine how they were rescued from someone else’s “unused tools” box or saved from being thrown away. A huge win-win for everyone!

15 thoughts on “Second-Hand Goodness!”

  1. I would love to visit a second hand art store like you suggested! I could supply it with endless tubes of watercolour paints bought and only used once or twice. To be fair I am trying to use those watercolour paints up now by filling up some spare pans and using them when I go cafe sketching. It doesn’t really matter what the colours are as I am more focused on practising my people sketching and I do get more interesting results.

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  2. Dzień dobry.
    Jak wygląda Pana codzienna praca z rapidografami, tzn
    jak pilnować żeby się nie zatykały, jaki tusz i papier dobierać?
    Pozdr

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    1. Osobiście używałem oryginalnych tuszy Faber Castell albo Rotring (ten szczególnie jest bardzo dobry) – są super wodoodporne i schną bardzo szybko. W większości rapidografów te zakrętki są bardzo szczelne więc można je zostawić z tuszem na parę dni nie używane, ale jeśli się planuje je zostawić na dłużej to jednak trzeba czyścić, tusz wypłukać dokładnie (najlepiej taką gruszką gumową i roztworem do czyszczenia piór technicznych albo taką myjką ultradźwiękową) wysuszyć i zostawić dopiero.
      Papier najlepiej dość gładki z dobrym sizingiem (https://www.pulppapermill.com/sizing-agents/) tak żeby nie wchłaniał tuszu za bardzo do wnętrza, taki KENT albo podobny papier w stylu HOT-PRESS będzie OK. Łatwo taki papier rozpoznać po tym jak reaguje na kroplę wody – czy ona utrzymuje się na powierzchni aż nie wyschnie czy jest wchłonięta do środka. Wbrew pozorom dużo dobrych, gładkich, papierów będzie radzić sobie w porządku. 👍

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      1. Dziękuję.
        Wyszło podobnie do tego co robiła osoba z mojej rodziny w latach 70-ych. Po pracy wkładała rapidografy do torebki żeby nie wysychały, a na koniec tygodnia wszystkie szły do mycia. Potrafiła wyjąć igłę ze środka i włożyć po umyciu, czego nie polecam bo ultra łatwo zgiąć wszystko. Co do tuszu to zgadzam się z opinią o rotringowym, ale z tej przyczyny że nie ma specjalnie nic innego, bo polski rystor gwarantuje zatkanie :D, a faber castell jest 2x droższy. Pozostaje tylko dobrać dobrze papier, bo to naprawdę połowa problemów z głowy. Pamiętam że mocno wpieniały niezasychające końce linii i można było łatwo sobie wszystko rozmazać. Potem “naumiałem się” autocada i romantyczne myślenie o nocnym kreśleniu zamieniło się na ślęczenie przed ekranem, czekanie w kolejce na wydruk i sklejanie puzzli z A4.
        Teraz szukam zastosowań dla tych pisaków, bo nadal mnie cieszą, nie trzeba włączać winpadaki, są przenośne, ale mniej wygodne niż jednorazowe cienkopisy.
        Ostatnio hiciorem są dla mnie tkaniny z Kanazawy – Kaga Yuzen. Podoba mi się paleta, zwłaszcza teraz w listopadzie:

        pozdr

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  3. Hi Mat!
    I identify with your “second hand” reusable sustainable approach on art supplies. And that because I got into this mode years ago, when I realized that there was no space large enough to store my own art supplies.
    You see when I was studying art back in the late 80’s I was in the non stop buying art materials attitude. I loved the art stores, and I could spent hours and thousands of drachmas ( we had drachmas back then in Greece) to buy all about everything. At some point after some years, I realized that this could not go on any more, as I had stuff that I had not used yet that it was stored in any imaginable place. Into my closets, under the bed even into the pockets of my clothes… lol
    So I decided very consciously back then that I had to stop buying whatever art supplies I saw in front of me. And that is how I’ve done it from the early 90s onward, something that turned my studio into a museum of vintage ( now ) art supplies!
    I have for instance drawing tools that are now 35 years old mostly because those art tools were made to last. ( in West Germany!!! lol )

    And that is what I want to point out which is something that we tend to forget. That modern art materials, even the most expensive of them, are pre made, pre planned to become obsolete by default. Even those that look like they are made to last, are not that well made with so high quality metal or plastic as the older ones. The so called Planned Obsolescence is now everywhere aside of course of the art materials that are disposable either way.

    So I think that the point is not only to buy more sustainable and long lasting tools but to push the manufacturers to manufacture stuff that will last longer.

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  4. I would love to visit such a second hand art supply store, this is such a cool idea! 🙂

    I too like to look around for second hand tools on the internet that I know will last longer than single use pens or new stuff. Somehow even some of the “good” tools today fall apart after a few years (or even worse, a few uses).
    Those Rotring technical pens still have good value, although I dread their tendency to leak when I’m sketching outdoors.

    And since you were talking about paper and sizing: curiously that only has happened with one specific paper for me so far, but since I love that paper so much I keep buying it. Living on the edge with Saunders Waterford!

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    1. You know what, I too had a whole bunch of Waterford paper go bad on me enough that I had to throw away a few watercolor blocks of it because it became unusable – the sizing giving out completely. Maybe it’s time to stop trusting this brand – which would be a shame because I like how it behaves when it’s OK.

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      1. Yeah, that hurts, especially when considering how expensive these blocks are. So far it only happened to me with their thinner sheets (190gsm), but I’m eyeing my 300gsm Waterford suspiciously now. I try to store it in a very dry place to avoid damage, but who knows how long that will help.
        When it works, it is such a wonderful paper though!

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      2. Ha… So it didn’t happen only to me! I mean Waterford paper going bad losing its sizing and becoming like blotting paper. FYI this doesn’t happen only if you store the paper for long time but also while you are working on the paper. It has happened to me twice on full sheet works that had already loads of work on them. It also happened to me to buy the paper in such a condition. I mean take it out from its wrap and realize that I bought a nice package of expensive blotting paper! lol

        But I found a solution to this problem.
        You have to apply white gesso on the non working side of the paper, ( mark it with a pencil in advance) and transparent watercolour background ( of any kind ) on the working side of the paper. Apply both mediums with a wide flat brush trying to not leave any visible brushstrokes ( if it is needed dilute the gesso with a bit of water) and also in two layers after waiting for the first one to dry well. Just make sure to mark which side has the watercolour background because it is not easy to distinguish the two different sides after the application ( unless of course you are doing this fix on a illustration that you are still making.
        And that brings the paper back in its working condition.
        For even better results in this particular case, seal the finished work with furniture wax ( I use the Dorlant one) in order to make sure that the washes under the watercolour background and on the watercolour background will look even.
        But generally speaking this is a big problem with Waterford papers. I don’t know what kind of sizing they use there are St Cuthberts mill that fails that bad and so unexpectedly.

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      3. Hi! Thanks for all the solution details! I’m happy to see that you managed to figure out something that helps to use the paper even if it goes bad. I have bought something that HOLBEIN sells – it’s called Multi Sizing W470 and from what I see on their website and YouTube it should work – just dilute it and paint it on. But the bottle is small-ish and not cheap sadly.

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    2. Browsing would make me wonder what stories these tools would tell me. I have a box that opens like a suitcase and every time I open it I fele like I am opening a treasure box.

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  5. Re: the Waterford blotting paper effect and solutions for it, great that there seem to be products to bring back the sizing. There’s also Schmincke Aqua Grund and Daniel Smith Watercolor Ground, I suppose this is similar to the Holbein stuff (also rather expensive). I haven’t found out how this will affect the stability of the other materials (lightfastness etc.), but I guess it’s better than throwing away paper.
    Anyway, I’ve decided I will contact St. Cuthberts Mill about this (when I find the time), since apart form this I’m really fond of the paper.

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